Puerto Angel…and Playa Zipolite

A week-long overnight stay…

We pulled into the Playa Zipolite area near Puerto Angel about midday. With not much trouble at all we found the RV spot we were looking for: Fernando’s RV park. Fernando had a huge spread about a block from the water. There was no one else staying there, so we had the place all to ourselves. We had use of the bathrooms, showers and electricity. There were lots of chickens roaming around and 1 lucky rooster. Every morning he would gently coax us from our slumber starting at about 4:30am.

Fernando’s property was surrounded by a chain-link fence, so Luna was allowed to roam free. After the first night, Luna began spending her days sleeping under the van. Emily had removed all the fleas and ticks and given her the flea medicine. We thought maybe she was just exhausted and beat-up. A few days rest and she’ll be good as new. The next day, Luna seemed worse and was very hot to the touch. We began to get worried. Fernando had taken some veterinary courses and prescribed Luna some anti-biotics. We were to give her one pill a day for three days and check her progress. We decided to spend the week at Fernando’s to give Luna a chance to heal. Besides, it was nice there and cheap to boot.

It was hot in Playa Zipolite. Very hot. We would leave the doors to the van open at night to get any sort of breeze we could. This required us to employ our mosquito net, because they (the mosquitoes) were definitely aware of us. Nighttime saw all kinds of crazy bugs. We would burn citronella candles and smoke some coconuts until we retired to the safety of the netting over the bed. The flashlight would reveal a blanket of bugs attaching themselves to the outside of the net. It was usually better to leave the light off and remain blissfully unaware as to what was lurking only a few inches away.

We were burnt out on the beach, so we spent most of our days reading, writing and in general catching up on things. We had electricity, so we were able to get some computing done and charge up all of our ipods, cameras, etc. We did venture out to Zipolite a couple of times. Not much in the way of surf, but it was beautiful. We also saw a few nakeds. Apparently this beach is sort of known as a nudist beach. But, Zipolite seems to have the same problem as Black’s Beach in San Diego and Hippy Hollow in Austin…There were only a few naked people, and as usual, it was just a couple of old men. Why is it that only old men seem to want to get naked at the drop of a hat? I have yet to see a flock of beautiful, young, naked women at a nude beach. What can you do?

Puerto Angel proper was just a short drive away. We would go into town to get water and beer. One evening we decided to cook up some fresh fish. Puerto Angel is a small fishing town and lots of shops had fish for sale that had been swimming around just a few hours before. I wanted some pulpo (octopus). Last time in Chacahua, Bertha had made pulpo for me a few times and I was craving it. We went to the local fish market and told the guy we wanted a kilo of pulpo. I thought it would be a bag of cut up tentacles. Nope, it was a bag full of about 3 small, whole octopus. Cooking octopus is quite a process. First you have to boil them so that their tendons begin to break up and ooze from the skin in a gelatinous secretion. You then rinse off the goo, chop off the head and beak, and begin a slow, two hour or so simmering process. The trick is to cook them long enough to make them tender, but not so long that they get burnt and tough. My first batch was delicious but still too chewy. A few of the smaller tentacles came out just right, but the majority of them made your jaw tired trying to eat them. The second batch got a bit burnt and crispy. There were a few good, salvageable pieces, but most of it was inedible. Out of 3 tries, we had enough for 1 serving each. It worked out ok and the parts that we did eat were really good.

Luna was doing better by the end of our 6th day, so we decided to head out. We were hoping to hit San Jose Del Pacifico in the Oaxacan mountains by nightfall. On the map it looked to be a fairly short drive, but by now we knew not to take anything for granted. We readied ourselves the night before and got up early the next morning to start or trip. We thanked our new friend Fernando for all his help with Luna and hit the road.


~ by pleasuredevice on 01/25/2011.

One Response to “Puerto Angel…and Playa Zipolite”

  1. you can have a great weblog here! would you wish to make some invite posts on my weblog?

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